frame 74 December 2025
Thin Christmas
by Isobel McGrigor
Isobel McGrigor is a writer, journalist, and (currently) retired chef from Oxfordshire. She works between London and Buenos Aires, and has reported for outlets including the FT, BBC World Service, and BBC Studios.
She worked briefly as a showgirl at the circus.
Thin Christmas
The fattest I have ever got was during my first Christmas away from home. I didn’t notice my body changing. My two pairs of jeggings expanded with me. The only reflective surfaces I owned were a concave makeup mirror and a couple of spoons; I assumed my face’s roundness was due to converging rays of light.
I only realised I was fat when a child drew a picture of me and my friends: two stick figures, and a circle with a head, arms, and legs.
I was as jolly as my appearance suggested. I had lots of friends, and I went to parties every night of the week, where I drank red wine and coca cola.
We mixed our wine and coke with Homeric ceremoniousness. We cut a litre cola bottle in half, and melted the rim with a lighter, so it wouldn’t cut our mouths. This communal cup runneth over with vinagery wine decanted from a cardboard box marked ‘cooking’ and magical black syrup. We passed it between ourselves all night, topping it up so it never emptied.
During that sunny Southern hemisphere Christmas all parental instructions for self-preservation were discarded. Vegetables were not eaten, regular hours for sleeping and waking were not kept, suncream was not applied.
I didn’t know how to cook so I started by learning to make what I first remembered eating: apple crumble. After hours of labour, I was so satisfied by my own creation that I stopped my culinary education there and then. We ate it cold for breakfast every day, sitting on the doorstep in the morning sun, breaking through the sugary crust into the sour apples below.
Occasionally some distant survival instinct, smothered by sugar, sent faint messages from the stomach to the brain that something more substantial was needed. We would hitchhike into town after work and buy some meat from the butchers, which smelt of bleach and blood. Returning, we would climb over the concrete wall to our neighbours’ and make the exchange: we provided meat, they provided fire. They had a blackened old oil drum that had turned into a barbecue.
The process took hours. We sat around joking and slapping at mosquitoes as we waited, washing down our thoughts with highlighter-yellow Inca Cola, which made our urine glow slightly fluorescent.
The meat was served black and tough, only seasoned with salt, no accompaniment but sweet white bread rolls, and nothing has ever tasted as good again.
On Christmas Eve we spent the day outside, eating halved melons with a shared spoon and then putting the sticky carcasses on our heads. I got so ferociously sunburnt that all my friends painted their faces red for our party that evening. I lived like an (endomorphic) animal, thoughtlessly confident in the security of the pack. Whatever happened to me happened to them too.
The thinnest I have ever got was during the Christmas after my grandfather died. I realised I was thin when I posted my most successful instagram ever (seventy-eight likes, fifteen comments).
My sister had confided in me that her dream was to take a sexy photo in front of a Christmas tree and post it on Christmas Eve. She got self-conscious trying to take the picture, so I gave her the phone and demonstrated some poses. My newly visible cheekbones had changed everything. I posted the picture, swiping my sister’s dream out from under her.
My cousin commented: ‘so sexy’ and deleted it. He wasn’t fast enough – I’d screenshotted. I was pleased; I was always looking out for funny things to send my boyfriend. I couldn’t immediately message him the screenshot though, because I wasn’t allowed to double text.
I also wasn’t allowed to reply to him in less time than it had taken him to reply to me, message him on a different platform if he hadn’t responded on whatsapp, check my phone twice in half an hour, or complain to him that I had seen him online without replying to my messages. I had kept my phone on aeroplane mode for most of the day, to keep to my rules, but I had to connect to the wifi to go on instagram.
Although the other responses to my post meant a lot to me, I still didn’t have much appetite during Christmas Eve dinner. Why hadn’t my boyfriend commented on my picture?
My mother started to cry halfway through the raspberry souffle she had made us for pudding. She had secretly taught herself to make souffle, to delight us with a Christmas surprise after the grim funeral week, but no one seemed to like it. I forced the foamy spoonfuls down.
I went upstairs, already sick of my family and our terrible predictability. The rest of the evening dragged on like my endless, friendless school summer holidays. I could see dried bluetack on my bedroom wall from where I had torn my monstrous collage of photos, magazine pages and ticket down, but my teenage imaginings still haunted the room. I had spent years in there, waiting.
I wasn’t going to check my phone again until the morning, but I didn’t want my boyfriend to be up all night, wondering why I hadn’t replied.
I had screenshotted a quote that day: ‘Co-dependency is scary, but you are brave.’
I put the phone on my pillow so that if he messaged the screenlight would show through my closed eyelids. I made it to 11 o’clock before I cracked and texted him.
He replied seven minutes later.
I felt a great sense of relief and was able to sleep.
I woke up with a positive attitude and more of an appetite. I had let anxiety take over, but I was back in control. I wished my boyfriend ‘Happy Christmas,’ in a relaxed way, and went to brush my teeth.
As I brushed, I thought about how my boyfriend had already been on his phone that morning but hadn’t messaged me. I didn’t want breakfast anymore. At the table, my grandmother asked how my boyfriend was. She had been widowed three weeks before, after sixty years of marriage.
She went on about when she lost her phone when my grandfather was in the hospital and she was waiting for news about his condition.
Please God, who I don’t believe in, let him reply to me.
I remembered, with a twinge of anxiety, that I had forgotten to do the ham. The list of nineteen Christmas dishes was divided up in November, so that we could cook in advance, freeze, and reheat on the day, to allow for relaxed, cheerful, and festive family time.
The ham had been my grandfather’s favourite. One year, appalled by our wasteful refusal to eat the fat of the ham, he had collected the refuse from our plates to create a white mound of gristle on his. He grimly ate his way through the fat, as we watched in disgust and admiration.
Breakfast was cleared away (I hovered with my untouched plate, pretending to be busy) and everyone left the kitchen, giving me a quick chance to do the ham before maternal eyes noticed my neglect of duties.
I pulled the ham out of its plastic straight onto the counter. I began to stab it with cloves, which snapped off before they penetrated its rubbery flesh. I grabbed a big knife and bayoneted the body, jamming cloves into the wounds as I inflicted them. The knife might easily slip and cut my hand; I would have to go to the hospital, and someone would need to tell my boyfriend what had happened.
I put the ham in a pot with an onion and poured over a litre of coke, turning the heat up. It bubbled up to the rim but settled down. If it boiled over there would be trouble.
My mother came into the kitchen and leaned against the counter, placing her hand where the uncooked ham had sat. She didn’t appear to feel any residue from the liquid that had dribbled out of its packaging. ‘You’re doing the ham now? We’re going for a walk, can you leave it?’ she said, reaching into the bag of crisps on the side, and putting one into her mouth. I nodded. My mouth was furry from hunger, but I didn’t want the crisps anymore.
I decided to send my boyfriend the cousin screenshot; he couldn’t ignore that one! I debated captions.
‘We’re leaving right now,’ she shouted from outside. ‘Hurry up!’ I ran after them, getting dizzy from the exertion. We trudged through a flooded field and then up the hill past the wood. The dog wouldn’t come back; my father shouted its name fruitlessly and repeatedly.
‘Come. Come. COME!’ I bellowed in clipped tones, imitating my grandfather calling for his disobedient dog. My sister started to laugh – it was one of the jokes from our family repertoire – and stopped. My mother came towards me, her face and eyes red. She grabbed me above my elbows and shook me. I shouted, ‘Calm down!’ shaking her back. I wondered if I would slap her.
I ran away into the wood, going down the hill and then wading through the river as if I hoped my pursuers would lose my scent. I smelt something familiar and foul. Fox shit.
The fox was splayed out on the mossy ground like a picture hanging on a wall, its red tail still bushy, its white teeth smiling. Little worms wriggled out of its burst-open stomach, but its nose and paws remained perfect.
I thought about sending my boyfriend a photo of the fox.
When I got back to the house the kitchen was filled with nervous activity. My mother was furiously plunging sprouts into boiling water and trying to stir the gravy at the same time. The other members of the family avoided eye contact, staying busy. My grandmother sipped sherry at the kitchen table, smiling vaguely, oblivious to the rising tension. I could smell burning. The coke had boiled over, fusing tar to the pot and cooker, exposing a pink shrivelled organ. I yanked the ham out, leaving behind a layer of burnt-on skin, put it down on the counter, remembered the raw ham, put it back in the smoking pot, and then onto a plate.
My phone buzzed.
My father popped a bottle of champagne.
I cheersed Happy Christmas with genuine enthusiasm.
I anointed the ham with the remains of the congealing coke syrup and hid it behind the bowl of roast potatoes. I took a photo of the rest of the food laid out on the table, glistening with fat: roasted parsnips, gravy, bread sauce, hot crisps, apricot and hazelnut stuffing, brussel sprouts with chestnuts, buttery sweetcorn, redcurrant jelly, sausage meat stuffing, swede and celeriac puree, glazed carrots, red cabbage and raisins, bacon wrapped chipolatas, cranberry sauce, white and brown turkey meat, crispy turkey skin, and breadcrumbs fried in butter.
My mother had found the ham. My grandfather used to make a ceremony of carving it once everyone was seated. She took a knife to the ham, which sat brainlike in its pool of black syrup. Its interior was ominously shiny.
‘This isn’t cooked through.’
I sent my boyfriend the picture of our Christmas dinner.
Her voice rose, ‘the ham is not cooked. We can’t eat it. It’s raw. I ordered it months ago from the butcher-’ I grabbed the slice of ham off the fork she was brandishing and shoved it into my mouth. ‘What are you doing?’ I chewed and chewed but could not swallow.
I rose from my chair and made a bolt for the door, ‘it’s perfect. It’s just a bit rare. In Japan they eat raw-’ I managed to swallow as the door fell shut.
The bathroom’s safety was immediately violated: ‘what is wrong with you?’ said my mother, advancing, carving fork still in hand. I was cornered. Her face seemed huge as it loomed, shivering, towards me. I could feel the heat of the blood in her forehead, ‘what is going on? You’re upsetting your grandmother; you ruined the ham. I tried so hard this year to make it a good Christmas, after everything,’ she was shouting, and crying again, somehow still getting closer. ‘Get off your fucking phone!’
I vomited, with some relish, and relief. There wasn’t much in my stomach apart from the ham; it reappeared, mangled and pink as the fox’s tongue, marinated in foaming green bile. My mother held my hair back until I stopped being sick and left the room.
I heard them pulling the crackers. I didn’t know how to reply. I noticed a small maggot on my sleeve. Had I touched the fox? The little worm was probably a clothes moth larva. The egg had been laid in the weave of my jumper, and had hatched on Christmas Day, like Jesus Christ. It would chew through the red wool, and lay more eggs, and its descendants would continue to eat my jumper until I was naked. When I was dead, other worms and their children and grandchildren would eat my flesh until I was nothing but clean white bones.
Sitting on the bathroom floor, I sent my boyfriend a nude I had taken the day before. My bellybutton was taut, my hipbones visible.
My boyfriend didn’t reply. My boyfriend should have replied. I hated my boyfriend. When he said he wanted to be with me, I thought I would never be lonely again. Now I was lonelier than ever, weakened by my taste of companionship, unable to do without it.
I called my boyfriend. I sent him a photo of the fox. I called him again.
I called him three more times.
I got up and went into the kitchen. My mother was sitting on her own, surrounded by the flotsam of the Christmas meal, drinking a diet coke.
I took the half glass of red wine that had been left by the dishwasher and sat next to her. There was still some coke in the can next to her glass. I poured it into the wine. She looked at me in amazement. I took a sip. It was all wrong: the wine was too good, the diet coke metallic and sugarless.
She took my glass and drank from it. ‘This is disgusting.’
We began to laugh.
I took a cold roast potato from the bowl next to her and started to eat.